By Younes Johannes Brik Adam Klinge
Rising with the sun for yoga on the hostel rooftop, then heading to the beach for a day of surfing. Enjoying bowls or burgers for dinner on the main street to the tunes of indigenous street musicians. This is the typical day for many surf tourists in Taghazout. Two decades ago, there was only a handful of western hippies mingling with the local Amazigh population of the small fishing village in southern Morocco. Today, it stands as North Africa's premier surf destination, drawing tourists from around the globe.
Sun and Waves, But Little Cultural Interest
Despite the idyllic setting and flourishing tourism, visitors do not engage much with the local culture. Neither through activities, nor through culinary choices. Travel blogs and guides frequently extol the virtues of Taghazout's surf spots, dubbing it the "Land of 1001 Waves". The vibrant indigenous heritage, that defines the region, often remains in the background. Surfers come to surf; the rest remains an exotic backdrop for their surf adventures. This has been reflected in interviews done for my master's thesis at the German Sport University Cologne.
The influx of Western European travelers is primarily due to excellent surf conditions in winter, favorable weather, and affordability. When asked about their cultural expectations, many surf tourists admitted they know little about the country, not showing interest in delving into the local culture.
At first glance, this seems like an opportunity for unfiltered experiences of Morocco and its culture. The idea that "sports connect and everyone is equal in the ocean" as one interviewed surfer put it, suggests a possibility for decolonizing traveler’s mindsets.
Same Activity, unequal Encounters
Sadly, tourism alone does not have the ability to dismantle racist and postcolonial stereotypes and prejudices. Why should surf tourism be any different? My master's study's findings are predictably disheartening: surf tourism often reinforces rather than challenges tourists’ postcolonial and racist images. Morocco and its people are frequently perceived as "other" and "exotic," while having a self-image of Western normativity.
The interviews reveal notions of Western superiority, with tourists describing a “poor and needy” country in need of modernization. The culture is viewed as "simple and wild," and people as primitive. While Moroccan men are portrayed as aggressive and abusive, Moroccan women are seen as passive victims of their religion. Muslim forms of feminism have no place in the western-hegemonic minds of the tourists. They assume that Europe is the locals' aspiration and expect political and cultural developments to follow European models.
Meaningful cultural exchanges can support breaking down such stereotypes. This requires meeting on equal footing. Surf tourism does indeed create contact moments. Locals love to surf, and the sport has even produced anti-patriarchal icons in Morocco. However, despite the seemingly homogenous appearance of surfers, there are strict hierarchies in the ocean. Local surfers wait for waves in areas where they begin to break. Tourists stay out of this area, catching the waves the locals don't want. This globally recognized surf etiquette hinders equal encounters while surfing.
Only few surf tourists report forming friendships with locals through surfing. Some interviewed surfers are aware that they get a "tailored impression" of Morocco suited to Western tourism. Most interactions remain economically motivated as for locals, interactions with guests are opportunities to earn money. Surf tourism significantly contributes to the economic development of the region between Agadir and Essaouira.
Neocolonial Continuities Instead of Decolonial Independence
Evening strolls on the main street highlight the division between Moroccans and Western tourists. Locals dine in Moroccan restaurants, while tourists frequent expensive, westernized hipster cuisine. Everything can have an exotic touch but not too much. An interviewee in the study noted that the only Moroccans they interact with are involved in tourism and have adapted to Western culture: "I'm not sure if I'm getting a deep insight into Moroccan culture, at all."
This results from tourism workers striving to offer carefree travelers the perfect balance of exotic North African adventure and Western comforts. The village enters a postcolonial dynamic, adjusting local culture and infrastructure accordingly. This includes Western-friendly food and bars serving alcohol. However, these privileges apply only for Western tourists, a few local tourism workers, and the Moroccan elite. Behaviors that are punishable for locals, such as public displays of affection, are tolerated when exhibited by tourists. Travelers receive only superficial glimpses of traditional culture through performances tailored for them, like indigenous music shows in tourist areas.
What happens in Taghazout mirrors many places worldwide. Sports tourism can boost the economy and create jobs. It can also foster encounters if done thoughtfully. To dismantle prejudices, surf tourists must first acknowledge their own racist and postcolonial images. They need to engage actively with the country and its people. On-site, seeking non-commercial interactions is crucial. Regularly reassessing perceptions to avoid viewing people and situations with a prejudiced gaze is essential. This way, foundations can be laid for interactions that counteract postcolonial stereotypes.
Younes Johannes Brik Adam Klinge is a graduate of the Master's program in Sports Tourism and Destination Management in Cologne. His master's thesis titled "Surf Tourism as a Decolonial Tool?" is a qualitative study on the impact of surf tourism in Morocco on racist postcolonial stereotypes and prejudices. The German-Moroccan spent a whole winter in Taghazout for his research.
