by Jai Prathap Chenna
Thotlakonda is an ancient Buddhist site situated near Visakhapatnam in Andhra Pradesh on the eastern coast of India. Having participated in a guided ThinkTrawell team visit to the site, the author shares his reflections on Buddhist architecture and teachings. He suggests a careful approach in developing Thotlakonda and similar sites as tourist attractions. Travel companies like ThinkTrawell may offer improved visitor experiences by taking into account the spiritual nature of the site.
Thotlakonda is one out of more than 200 Buddhist sites identified in the South Indian state of Andhra Pradesh. It offers glimpses into early Buddhist life from around the 2nd century BCE (BC). This hilltop complex overlooking the Bay of Bengal was discovered in 1976 and is believed to have once been an important center for Buddhist monks from South and Southeast Asia. Thotlakonda (from Telugu) means "hill of stone cisterns", as the site is dotted with natural rock-cut cisterns that once stored rainwater. The archaeological findings include stupas (mound-like structures used for meditation), chaityas (prayer halls), viharas (monk residences), and stone inscriptions.
The three jewels of Buddhism
Our visit to Thotlakonda began with an intentional state of no thoughts or discussions, which parallels the first jewel of Buddhism, “Buddham Sharanam Gachami” (“I take refuge in the Buddha”). Just as the Buddha's awakening is about transcending worldly distractions and entering a state of pure awareness, we started our visit with no preconceived ideas. This allowed us to be open to whatever insights the site had to offer.
As we explored the site, the initial emptiness of thought gave way to the presence of mind, which is connected to the second jewel: “Dhammam Sharanam Gachami” (“I take refuge in the Dharma”). Dharma refers to the rules, principles, or moral codes that guide one's life. At Thotlakonda, this presence of mind led us to reflect on the need to protect this heritage of history and spirituality. We understood that it is not just a place for tourism but also sacred ground that must be cared for.
As we progressed through the site, our intellect was stimulated by the rich history and architecture, resonating with the third jewel, “Sangham Sharanam Gachami” (“I take refuge in the Sangha”). The Sangha represents the community of practitioners or intellectuals who support one another on the path to enlightenment. During our tour, this sense of community was evident in the exchange of knowledge, questions, and reflections shared among participants and guides. Much like the Sangha supports spiritual growth this collective engagement fostered a deeper understanding of the site.
Archaeology, Restoration and Tourism
One of our key reflections at Thotlakonda was the delicate balance between Archaeology, Restoration, and Tourism. Many cultural heritage sites are considered holy sites which hold special spiritual or religious significance for individuals and/or communities and are revered as places of pilgrimage, worship, and reflection.
Should such sites be preserved in their original state or should they be restored to make them more appealing to visitors and believers? On one hand, the untouched state of the site provides deep insights into history, valuable for scholars and those seeking authenticity. It must be protected from any possible damage and decay. On the other hand, by reconstructing certain aspects, it would be easier to visualize what the structures once looked like and how they functioned. However, great care would need to be taken not to overshadow the original essence of a site with such interventions. A better option for visitors might be the use of modern digital technologies to provide a better imaginary visual perspective.
Tourism plays a vital role in drawing attention to sites like Thotlakonda. Yet, the influx of visitors can also pose risks, as too much commercialization might erode the spiritual and archaeological significance of the site. With proper management, tourism can help to ensure that they are cared for and maintained.
Stupas and Intentions
The stupas at Thotlakonda are powerful symbols of Buddhist teachings, highlighting the interconnectedness of life, energy, and thought, both in the present and beyond. They can be categorized into three types:
Stupas which housed the physical remains of enlightened monks serve as markers of transformation from the physical to the spiritual realm. They remind us of the Buddhist belief that death is not an end but a transition to another form of existence. Other stupas contained personal belongings and clothes worn by the monks that are believed to carry the monks' soul energy even after their death. This highlights the idea that the essence of an individual extends beyond their physical body and can be preserved in the things they used and touched. The third type of stupa represents the good intentions and thoughts of the monks. According to Buddhism, thoughts and intentions shape our actions, our karma, and the spiritual energy we carry into the afterlife. This type of stupa symbolizes the lasting impact of our intentions, emphasizing that our thoughts are just as powerful and enduring as our physical presence.
The site’s architecture also reflects a deep understanding of the natural environment, integrating human-made structures with the landscape itself. One of the most striking features of Thotlakonda is the absence of statues, inviting visitors to reflect on the insignificance of personal identity, encouraging a focus on collective wisdom, spiritual growth, and a deeper understanding of existence.
Jai Prathap Chenna works on strategy development with ThinkTrawell, a startup in socially responsible tourism based in Visakhapatnam, India.
