Ethiopia’s Churches of Lalibela

by Lea Thin, freelance writer

The twelve rock-hewn churches of Lalibela in Ethiopia are renowned worldwide as both spiritual and architectural marvels. They are carved entirely from the red tuff of the Ethiopian highlands and serve as holy sites for the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. The ceremonies follow centuries-old liturgical practices that have hardly changed since the churches were built in the 12th and 13th centuries like the use of Ge'ez, an ancient liturgical language, and the singing of traditional hymns. The faithful, often barefoot, perform ritual prostrations and prayers that create a physical connection to the holy site. According to legend, the churches symbolize the “heavenly Jerusalem.” The design of the churches with their labyrinthine corridors and courtyards reinforces the feeling of holiness and seclusion.

Especially during major religious festivals such as Genna (Ethiopian Christmas) and Timkat (Epiphany), Lalibela becomes a center of religious life. Thousands of pilgrims come to take part in nightly processions and prayers led by priests wearing traditional dress and carrying sacred relics. However, the spiritual life of the community has undergone significant changes since the churches became a magnet for tourism. “Where once uninterrupted worship was the norm, tourists now introduce a more dynamic and, at times, disruptive element to this sacred atmosphere,” says Dawit Yehualashet Kebede, an Ethiopian travel specialist focusing on religion and peace studies. “Daily rituals and ceremonies continue, but the community has had to adapt, striving to balance the spiritual sanctity of the site with the demands of the growing number of visitors. Prayer times are often more strictly scheduled to balance the needs of worshippers and tourists. For some locals, this has led to a sense of spiritual dilution, as the sanctity of the site increasingly shares space with its commercial fame.”

Conservation versus tradition

Not only does the presence of tourists disrupt spiritual practices, but conservation measures to protect the ancient structures also impose restrictions. Due to the large number of visitors, the surfaces of the churches are wearing down much faster and more intensively than they did in previous centuries. Many areas of the site are no longer freely accessible to the local population, particularly during restoration projects. “Foot traffic is carefully managed to reduce physical wear on the ancient stone surfaces, and during peak tourism seasons, locals are often directed to specific pathways to minimize damage,” states Kebede. The number of participants of traditionally big gatherings are heavily restricted to protect the delicate structures. Additionally, the development of tourism infrastructure has altered land use, affecting traditional ways of life, such as farming and community gatherings. “These limitations create both practical and emotional challenges. This is especially the case as all churches are connected by a system of trenches and tunnels. Each church has a specific meaning and function for the rituals. If one or more churches can no longer be used due to an increase in tourists or damage caused by overuse, these rituals are disrupted, and the bond is broken.”

Threats of Instability

The fragile political landscape in Ethiopia, particularly the conflict with the Tigray People’s Liberation Front (TPLF), also presents an immediate danger. During an occupation in 2021 by armed forces, the preservation and sanctity of the churches were threatened. “Renewed or ongoing conflicts could undermine conservation efforts, deter tourists, and put additional strain on the local population,” says Kebede. Many residents, including clergy, fled the city to escape the violence. The remaining priests were under enormous pressure as the holy sites became conflict zones. “Religious ceremonies, for the most part, continued uninterrupted, even as social life and any semblance of normalcy were disrupted. This highlights the resilience and devotion of both the clergy and the laity.” Tourism can play a pivotal role in safeguarding sacred sites by fostering international attention and economic reliance. “The conflict with the TPLF has brought war perilously close to this UNESCO World Heritage site. This underlined the significance of Lalibela, and pressure was taken on all conflict parties to respect the sanctity,” says Dawit Y. Kebede. Tourism-related revenues can be allocated to security measures, conservation efforts, and infrastructure improvements that help mitigate potential damage. “Climate change is another emerging threat accelerating the degradation of the rock-hewn churches: rising temperatures, increased rainfall, and erosion are all challenges that conservationists will need to address,” adds Kebede.

Balancing Economy and Spirituality

Lalibela is a place where spirituality and global interest converge. Tourism has heightened global awareness of Lalibela’s cultural and spiritual significance and provided vital economic benefits. Income from entrance fees and donations has enabled restoration efforts, ensuring the preservation of the churches. “The community has seen improved infrastructure, such as better roads, enhanced access to healthcare, and expanded educational opportunities, all driven by tourism. Many residents have gained employment in the tourism sector, working as guides, hotel staff, artisans, or in other service roles, which has helped uplift the local economy and reduce poverty. Quite a number of locals have even started their own businesses, and some have traveled abroad for further education, empowered by the economic opportunities created by tourism,” says Kebede.

Despite its benefits, growing tourism strains the local community’s spiritual practice. Sustainable solutions are needed to protect Lalibela’s sacred essence while embracing its global significance. Community-based tour guides play a key role by educating visitors about the site’s religious significance. „My late grandfather was the head priest of Saint Gabriel church, one of the 12 rock-hewn churches in the town. For him, tourism affects the spirituality of Lalibela churches in a negative way,“ says Daniel Shewalem. Daniel is born and raised in Lalibela and a tour guide for international tourists. „When I bring tourists to the churches, I make sure they show respect and keep the spirituality, like white clothing and kissing the stone when entering the churches. I ask them to proper dress, which means no short pants and headscarves for women. I also make sure that the rules are adhered to. For example, shoes or chewing gum are forbidden, or drinking water inside the church.“ Additionally, initiatives by the Ethiopian Orthodox Church also address tourism’s impact by emphasizing the site’s sanctity and fostering respect. These include restrictions such as photography bans during ceremonies or limiting access for non-believers during specific times. Such measures help preserve the churches’ spiritual character, ensuring that Lalibela remains a living center of faith and culture.